Posted by Vaughn Payton on January 31, 1999 at 11:50:30:
In Reply to: Help! PW Front Axle Rebuild Tricks, Tips. posted by Moby on January 31, 1999 at 10:35:12:
Hi Moby,
Is your WDX fulltime? If it is, and depending on the number of miles you have on the truck, there is a good chance the trunnion socket and knuckle bushings are worn (axle bushings). One reason to disassemble the knuckle. My were so bad my axles would lock up driving down the road, resulting in big bangs. Since the knuckle is loose, it's difficult to tell if the lower bearing cup is gone. You can usually tell with a tight knuckle by placing the knuckle in the center position and slightly moving it back and forth. If play is felt, then you know that cup is gone, requiring disassembly of the knuckle. This happens from the cone pounding the cup over time resulting in roller groves. Personnal experience here to. I think in your case the best thing to do is take it all apart and inspect for worn parts. Make sure you take off the upper cone and inspect the woodruff key & grove to see if the fit is still tight in the cone/trunnion pin. It's worth doing both sides to eliminate or prevent steering shimmy.
Parts list/source:
Upper/lower bearing cup - Available at any bearing store, use cup number;
Upper brase bearing cone, and axle bushings -- Vintage power Wagon -- 515-472-4665
Lower bearing cone, use cone number, any bearing store;
Knuckle seal kit (use M37) has all gaskets, felt seals and steel simms that you will need - Adirondack Dodge -- 315-896-2572
Inner axle seal - Federal Mogul# 417485, local parts store
Flange Gasket is Fel-Pro #4390, but I believe it is included in the seal kit
I've done the right side of my 1956 C3, collecting the parts to do the left side. Good luck!