axle snap prevention


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Posted by John in Utah [166.70.201.2] on Tuesday, June 10, 2014 at 10:02:20 :

In Reply to: Re: If you have not broken a jeep or a PW then you aint been whe posted by Tweety [205.200.11.36] on Monday, June 09, 2014 at 17:02:09 :

Hi Steve,
while I am new to the PW world i am not new to the 4x4 and rock-crawling world and some things are equal no matter what you drive.
axle shafts have typical weak spots like where the splines are cut or where the yoke is attached. so check them carefully when you put your setup together.

The ARB is good because you can disable it when driving on normal pavement.
The ARB is bad because if a seal breaks it pressurizes the axle and pumps all your oil out! you may not believe me but i have seen this happen more than once. Also the design of most of the "switchable" lockers is to lock one side of the spider gears which means that the other side is being driven through the spiders, this gives you many points of failure, I have seen many guys detonate this kind of locker when spinning tires suddenly stop on a rock or if the wheel that is driven through the spiders gets stuck and power is used to free it....boom you done!
So i would suggest you still take care when using the ARB or any locker to avoid these things i just said.
I run a lock-rite in my jeep and have never had any issues with it,(13 years now), you do have to learn to drive different when you have a full time locker on regular pavement, it can push you strait when you want to turn or it can suddenly unlock and then re-lock when you let off the gas in a curve, imagine making an unintended lane change in a curve! it can be interesting.....

the only other thing i would say that causes most axles to snap is loading the axle with power when it is turned full either way. The u-joint is the most vulnerable when turned fully one way or the other. I try to get moving then turn the wheel if possible.

That said, I would think your setup with the 11.00's and the 4.89's would work fine.



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