Re: Please. I'm not trying to be a pain...


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Posted by Clint Dixon [74.206.63.34] on Friday, January 04, 2013 at 17:03:39 :

In Reply to: Re: Please. I'm not trying to be a pain... posted by rick pacholski [75.177.46.144] on Friday, January 04, 2013 at 16:44:15 :

I have a model 61 heater. It also has two wires coming out of it. One wire, the ground, is short and is connected (grounded) to one of the sheetmetal screws on the heater body. The other is the leading coming from the switch to the motor.

Do you have a test light, a 12-volt battery that is not in the truck, and some sections of wire with alligator clips on the ends of them? If so, here is what I would do:

Set the 12-volt battery on the floor of the truck. Disconnect the vehicle battery under the hood of the truck. Connect one of the wires from the heater to the negative on terminal of the battery. Connect the other lead from the heater to the test light and touch the needle probe of the test light to the positive terminal of the battery. If the heater fan turns in the correct direction, then you have found the wires hooked up correctly. If not, reverse the wires and try it again.

I have never had to do this. This is just the way I understand that the heater motors operate. In any case there is no danger of damaging anything by using a stand alone battery, the vehicle battery disconnected, and by using a test light. If you don't have a spare battery, and don't want to move the one from under the hood to inside the cab just for a test, you can use a 12-volt (or 6-volt) battery charger in place of the battery.

A battery charger and a test light are my two main diagnostic tools that always stay on my workbench.

Junior




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