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Posted by Vaughn [99.38.192.113] on Friday, July 01, 2011 at 11:09:21 :
In Reply to: front end steering wander posted by mannyc [68.165.89.2] on Thursday, June 30, 2011 at 08:53:44 :
FRONT WHEEL ALINEMENT.
Front wheel alinement is governed by four factors commonly known as camber, trunnion pin angle, caster, and wheel toe-in.
(1) CAMBER AND TRUNNION PIN ANGLES. The correct camber and Trunnion pin angles are built into the front axle and will change only if the axle housing or steering knuckles are distorted by accidental damage. Therefore, no adjustments are provided.
(2) CASTER. Caster is governed by the chassis springs and the mounting of the front axle to the front springs. Correct caster is established by design and will be changed only by shifting of the front axle on the springs or by distortion of the chassis frame or springs or by the use of caster shims. No adjustment of caster is provided.
(3) TOE-IN. Front wheel toe-in is the most important factor in front wheel alinement. It is governed by the angle of the steering knuckle arms and the length of the steering tie rod. Inasmuch as wheel toe-in can be accidentally altered without serious damage to the vehicle, an adjustment is provided so that the tie rod may be lengthened or shortened to maintain correct front wheel toe-in of 0 to 1/8 inch (1/6 in. preferred).
Considering the above, additional items to check are:
• Trunnion pins for breakage in welds
• Front steering knuckle bearing pre-load
• Wheel bearing adjustment
• Rim nuts on hub – tightness
• Double check the conversion components to ensure you had tightened everything
If you feel everything is in order, then what you may be experiencing is wheel wonder from using harder rubber tires with less tread flex. These will have a tendency to grab and follow grooves in the road more than a radial or soft nylon tire with multiple tread patterns. If the steering box is new or remanufactured, no adjustment should be necessary.
In checking my toe-in, I use the same method as Kaegi. I place a side of masking tape as close to the center of the tire on both sides of vehicle, make a horizontal line on tape 6 inches above the ground at tire rear, take my measurement, drive or roll the vehicle till the horizontal line on tapes are 6 inches above the ground, and take the reading at the front from the same side of tape. You MUST do this procedure with the vehicle on the ground. I set my toe-in at zero. I get some tire wonder, but good tire wear.
I can’t recommend you shim springs, although others have done it. If all parts are in good shape, there is not need to do it.
If you’ve never have rebuilt the front axle’s steering components, or it has been a long time, give it some consideration. If you’re still using a drag link tube, you’re not going to be able to get all the play out to make it feel like a modern vehicle. Some play is taken out by converting to a newer box, but the main advantage of that box is the ability to parallel park your vehicle down town.