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Posted by Kevin in Ohio [50.41.180.150] on Tuesday, June 21, 2011 at 08:12:07 :
In Reply to: Re: Auto electrics ? experts please posted by D Sherman [72.47.9.228] on Monday, June 20, 2011 at 16:06:58 :
Thanks for the insight. The manufacturer was TPI Tech and I agree with your evaluation of them. My brother said if gauges can't handle 16 volts then it's not really designed to be an automotive gauge in the first place. He said everything they design has to be able to handle at least that much.
He too questioned the coil blaming as he said normally a either works or it doesn't. When I asked for the testing specs the sales guy said the new coil would fix it and I'd be fine. That's when I again asked for the specs to test the "new" coil so this wouldn't happen again. After saying basically he didn't know the specs he said if it blows again it would be under warranty. RED FLAG.
My problem was I had bought the original set of gauges 5 years ago while doing the rough build. (out of warranty) I have replacements here now(I know, I'm an idiot for trying them again) but I want to be able to see if it's something wrong on my end. Everything I tried keeps pointing to gauge design.
When fuel gauge died I called and he said it was a bad sender. He said to hook the sender lead to ground and the gauge would swing to clear full and that means bad sender. I doubted that was the problem as when key is turned on needle doesn't budge. Did what he suggested and needle still didn't move, I even went so far as to run another jumper wire from gauge to sender to eliminate a "short aspect" on original sender wire.
Motor came with 2 leads for tach. One for an ana+log tach and the other for a digital. I'm using the ana+log lead as it has a swinging needle.
Thanks for your insight and when I get some time I'll see if I can get this straightened out, Kevin