Re: pulling a 230 engine


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Posted by Chris Case [75.36.40.188] on Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 18:10:18 :

In Reply to: pulling a 230 engine posted by Jim DeWolfe [74.82.68.18] on Sunday, May 22, 2011 at 16:01:32 :

Fenders, but leave the brackets to the radiator support.

Radiator, with support. A strong experienced man can do it himself, might take 2-3 or an engine hoist otherwise.

Floorboards, Transmission, clutch, flywheel. Leave the bell housing in the chassis. Use an engine hoist to remove the tranny. I didn't used to, I'd would just grab the shifter, swing it back, lower it to the floor, all while sitting on the seat. Reverse to install. Not that strong any more. Or smarter now?

OR, leave the tranny on the engine, remove as one assembly with the engine hoist. But that means pulling the top off the tranny, and subsequent operations are harder than than if done in the chassis.

Unhook exhaust pipe at manifold. Engine.

Oh, the temp sender in the head is delicate. And it is usually crusted in. Might help to remove the small freeze plug on top, then pry the bulb out. That is not a wire to it, it is a little tube. DO NOT break or cut that capillary tube. If it is broke, it is repairable by buying an aftermarket mechanical gauge, freezing it, and soldering a butt joint in the tube. PITA. but I think the directions are in the archives here.

To re-install, use some guide studs in the bolt holes to aid in alignment. Engine to bell housing, and especially, fersure, got to have them, trans to bell housing. You want to keep the tranny level while you slide it forward. DO NOT let it hang on the input shaft. You can bend the clutch disc if you let it hang. FUBAR, need to do that part of the job all over again when the clutch won't release on the test drive.

Have fun.



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