Posted by WK Irish on Wednesday, January 17, 2001 at 1:15PM :
In Reply to: I have a plan for that ,if it will work posted by R Davis on Tuesday, January 16, 2001 at 10:39PM :
Gentlemen:
For nooks & crannies, pinch weld areas and all other tight spots, we suggest simply thinning some Zero Rust and pouring it into the area-using a catch basin to collect the runoff, which can be reused. As we state on on our website, the closer you can get ZR to the metal the better, so if hammering and pressurized air does the trick-go for it!
As to ZR vs other products: ZR is an air-dried, single stage, alkyd based paint, formulated to effectively "seal" oxygen from contact with the substrate. Easy to use in aerosols or bulk, No Isocyanates or Lead, repairable and forgiving as to surface preparation. No sandblasting required.
Converters chemically change the iron oxide (rust) to an inert substance, but DO NOT provide any protection against future rust and must be topcoated to do so.
We advocate, based on our experience, that this is a redundant and unnecessary step when using ZR, as ZR's sealing qualities choke off oxygen penetration, thus preventing any more rust development. "If rust can't breath, it can't grow"!
Moisture cured urethanes, like POR & others have been around for years and they have their advocates. Many users come to us eagerly looking for an easier to use, more effective & less expensive alternative.
Rustoleum products have also been around for years too, with a big marketing budget. They are an inexpensive alternative, but take a look at the solids contents on their label.
Lastly, ask the competition for their salt spray test cabinet results and compare them to ZR's 2000+ hour results.
Hope this helps.
WK Irish
|
Follow Ups:
This board is powered by the Mr. Fong Device from Cyberarmy.com |