Re: Garwood winch Model CA514-305166


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Posted by David Sherman [216.18.131.82] on Thursday, November 05, 2009 at 16:41:15 :

In Reply to: Garwood winch Model CA514-305166 posted by Ron Hardin [71.231.105.225] on Thursday, November 05, 2009 at 15:28:19 :

I'm on my laptop and dialup, and don't have any pictures handy, but the M35s used a 10,000 lb Garwood winch and there are lots of them around. If the winch still has its original data plate on it, it will say "Light duty". The housing is cast aluminum. The frame rails bolt into it from the ends, and there are flats on the top and bottom, as I recall, with more tapped holes. There's supposed to be a bar with a wide U-shaped cross section across the top, but it's often missing, or badly mangled from people who didn't stop winding the cable in when they should have. I think there's also one or two round bars (3/4"?) across the back. The clutch is internal in the passenger side housing and is actuated by a lever on that end. There's a pin you pull out and lock in the "released" position when you want to use the winch. When the pin is the locked position, it snaps into a hole in the end of the winch drum to keep the drum from turning. There's an internal drag brake (a small band brake), which works on the drive shaft (worm gear) rather than the winch drum directly. It's function is to keep the winch from unwinding if there's a heavy load on it and the PTO or engine clutch is disengaged. If your winch has all of those features, it's most likely off of an M35 and the information you need can be sought from the people who have M35s. There used to be a yahoo group called "green six" but I think it's gone. I have a couple of those winches but have not torn into them.

The only trick with operation is to remember to pull the drum-lock pin before engaging the clutch. It's a jaw clutch so you may have to turn the drum a bit by hand to get it to go in. At that point, depress the engine clutch, engage the PTO, let up the clutch, and things should start happening. Do it very slowly and have someone watch closely to make sure it's turning in the right direction and nothing is binding up.

What I usually do is disengage the winch clutch, put the PTO in gear, get the winch driveline turning, with the engine at minimum RPM, and then engage the winch clutch. At slow speeds, it doesn't hurt anything to do it this way. You want to immediately make sure you can quickly disengage it, though. If the shear pin, where the drive line goes into the worm gear housing, is broken, don't use anything stronger than a grade 2 bolt to replace it. The proper pins are aluminum. A grade 2 bolt is weak enough to protect the drive train and winch on an M35, but perhaps the M37 PTO is weaker and it would be too strong. Ideally you would check the oil level in the housing and fill it before operation. In my experience, the filler plugs are very difficult to remove, probably because they're seized in the aluminum housing, and they have a 1/2" square recess in them which fits loosely on a 1/2" ratchet and gets stripped out immediately when you try to turn them. As a practical matter, it's not going to hurt much to just try it out without oil in it, but you'll need to check and fill it before you do any real work with it.



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