Posted by Charlie on February 15, 1998 at 18:45:10:
In Reply to: Electric winch mounting, suggestions wanted posted by Pete on February 15, 1998 at 15:33:16:
If you do decide on an electric winch, be sure you have good batteries and a high output alternator or generator. All the usual mfgs. likE Warn and Ramsey make their winches in 24V, but you have to ask. Some dealers will look at you like you're asking for 6 lbs of methamphetamine; they are all available in 24V, particularly in the heavier duty models, since they all want to sell to the military market, and worldwide most military vehicles are 24V. With electric winches, err on the side of overkill - don't get smaller than a 10,000 lb rated electric winch. You should be aware that there are many good PTO and hydraulic winches available. I have two Braden AHSU3 10,000 lb rated (actually >22K lb breaking strength) hydraulic winches which look quite original on my M37 (also one on a ford F350). The same winch in PTO is called AMSU3, it takes 330' of 7/16" cable, 250' of 1/2". Ramsey makes hydraulic and PTO winches. warn makes hydraulics but doesn't advertise them much. Tulsa winches are similar to Braden. An outfit called "Master Mechanic" in Wisconsin (800-877-8350) has a Taiwanese made Japanese designed 8000 lb. PTO winch which takes 250" of 1/2" cable for $499. It weighs 165 lbs w/out cable so there is some metal there. the same place was my source for the Bradens which of course are more expensive. I'd guess an AMSU3 would run a little over $1000 new, without the PTO. M37 PTOs are pretty cheap and easy to find, even NOS. If you had a winch with driver's side input and a PTO that worked on the transmission, my guess is that a driveshaft wouldn't be too hard to get made. Master Mechanic advertises a 8000lb rated Braden worm drive 12V electric winch for $914. It weighs 80 lbs. I'm nearly positive it's available in 24V. DO NOT USE A 12V WINCH WITH A 24V SYSTEM! For many reasons! Many electric winches (and most of the PTO and hydraulic ones) are available with a simple mounting system consisting of 2 pieces of 3/8" or so angle steel. You simply trim to proper length, bolt onto the front bumper, use a 9/16 or 5/8 grade 9 bolt on each frame rail in the rear (or fabricate another crossmember in the rear underneath the rear angle piece), and cut a neat hole in the bumper with a cutting torch, and bolt a roller fairlead to the bumper. It will look very nice; mine does. I recommend PTO or most of all hydraulic if you can afford it.
Charlie