Posted by bruce in CO on Tuesday, August 07, 2007 at 17:17:00 :
In Reply to: Dual M/C Brake Conversion... posted by Marty on Tuesday, August 07, 2007 at 14:28:23 :
Marty,
Please excuse the dumb questions from a non-mechanic PW-rebuilder-wannabee!!
Your posting of the master cylinder fabrication using the Unimog eBay unit makes sense.
I have been trying to come up with a solution for my '53 B4 that would accomplish several things:
First, I have a Helitool disk brake kit for the fronts and want to keep the orig. drums on the rear.
- I would like to upgrade from the tiny orig. single to a new dual-reservoir master cyl. to accomodate one reservoir serving the front disks, and one serving the rear drums
- I would like to relocate the inconvenient master cyl. location from the frame location to somewhere more convenient like the firewall.
- I do not have an orig. frame-mounted PW vacuum brake booster, and do not know how to incorporate one while making any other changes. I am not even sure how much improvment such an addition would make, so I am planning on not bothering with this option.
- I would like to incorporate these upgrades without resorting to a full-blown Helitool conversion involving the hanging pedal conversion.
In talking with Ray on the phone, he explained that the brake conversion kit was prototyped with a later model PW having a 251 and synchro trans and that there were clearance issues to be dealt with in making the kit work with a 230 & non-syncro trans.
Since I am more of a "bolt-on" type of mechanic and am not equipped or talented to be a "fabricator," I would like to avoid a difficult project.
Using the Unimog unit looks like two reservoirs of any type/vintage/size (or possibly some type of single-unit dual reservoir) could be mounted on the firewall and attached to this master cyl. by short hose or tubing lines attaching to the brass fittings on the top of the Unimog unit.
Then, it looks like the white plastic hose fittings in the picture would be attached to the lines to the front and rear.
Then, it looks like the black thumb-screws on the bottom are bleeders.
Do I have this right?
Would there be a need to incorporate a metering valve? Doesn't a metering valve work with one-line-in (from the master cyl) and two lines out (one each to the front & rear)? How would this work with the two lines coming out of the Unimog master cyl.?
My BIG question would be, how and where to mount the Unimog master cyl. so that it works flawlessly with the orig. pedal configuration????
Thanx for any input.
Bruce
Follow Ups: