Posted by Vaughn on Sunday, May 20, 2007 at 13:32:49 :
In Reply to: thanks everyone- how hard is it to redo them?? posted by mannyc on Saturday, May 19, 2007 at 10:51:23 :
In for a littel work, but nothing to bad. You'll need the following:
- Wood blocks or jack stands to rest the frame on
- 8 inch "C" clamp. When you drop the axle housing down to slip the spring from the frame braket, the springs sometimes shift to the right or left. The C clamp is used to align the spring with the bracket so you can slip it back in. You drop the spring from the bracket ONLY if you need to replace the bushing.
- Bottle neck jack. Used to lower the axle housing or push the springs forward or backwards to align with frame bracket.
- A phillips screw driver that will fit in the bolt hole for moving the spring around to inspect the amount of wear on the bushing. Bushing are about 1/8 inch thick. If you have less than 1/32 in any area, then replace.
- To remove the rear spring pins, 6 inch 3/8 bolt, grade 8 and cut threads to bolt head. Steel pipe with 7/8 to 1 inch I.D. cut to 3 inches (barrel to pull pin through, several thick washers and a nut. Tighten bolt in pin and once you start pulling and the pin moves, loosen bolt to snugg fit. This will make it esier to separate bolt from pin once out. Make sure you get a good alignment of centering barrel around pin so are not tightening barrel against pin. You can make a simular type tool to remove the bushings.
I think you have a 3/4 WC? If so, the rear spring pins are the same as the FFPW. You can buy them at Kragen SK4640. They come two pins in a box. Just order 3 to give you the 6 pins required, about $35 bucks
www.partsamerica.com searh on SK4640
You can also see the flat area that is worn round on your pins.
If you need bushings as well, then you may want to order the kits from VPW. When doing the front, you'll need the kit from VPW