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Swepty load center/terminal block info.... |
| Name: |
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JimmieD |
| Date Posted: |
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Dec 1, 08 - 7:17 PM |
| IP Address: |
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66.81.196.210 |
| Message: |
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On another thread I posted that you should disconnect positive battery terminal before working on electronic ignition. Since then I've gotten a lot of flack and many e-mails about that being wrong, disconnect negative. This is supposedly to protect from sparks igniting battery gases.
If you only have one choice then yes, it's ever so slightly safer to disco negative, but at least place a dense rag tightly over cable lug when removing or re-attaching. 2 rags, one over battery top and one on lug are a little better, not much.
If you look at points ignition you'll find a condenser to prevent points arcing. The condenser absorbs the potential or voltage so the points don't get so pitted from arcing. Examination of the circuit will reveal that the points are actually at the negative end of circuit, that electrons are flowing in the >>> direction of the points. Problem is sparking, and it's at the negative end, not positive!
Reason for posting this here is to explain another way to do things on your truck electrical system, that's safer than factory version. Once modified you'll never have to worry about a battery exploding from disconnect or re-connect sparks again.
The points comparison applies to the battery too. FSM's and many sources imply that you're safe and in no danger as long as you remove negative terminal first. In fact either cable can spark dangerously and give you a whole bunch of battery & acid right in the face. I don't want ANYBODY here getting hurt, not anybody, so here's a fix.
The modification is to connect alternator positive lead to one side of a dual terminal connection block and connect battery positive to same terminal. The other terminal of connection block is internally connected to the first, so here you would connect all your loads from the truck such as lights & interior items. JEGS carries some of these terminal blocks pretty cheap, higher quality is available but JEGS worked fine for me.
Battery cable sized lug is usually a 1/4" stud that's fastened with lock-washer & nut, but I prefer a thread-sert or nylock or nylon insert nut. Other terminal is usually 10-32 I believe, using a 3/8" nut. Best to add a blob of dielectric grease over the conections when done, before snapping the cover cap in place, also on individual wire's spades & lugs. This terminal block gives a safe point of full electrical disconnect, sparks or not. If desired a wing nut can be used at battery/alternator lug.
Lights are best wired with relays for max voltage/brightness and least wear on switches, there's plenty on the net about how to do that. KC Hi-Lights has info on their site, also Daniel Stern. I mention that because it may effect where you want to locate this load center, up front or towards firewall?
With this load center connection you can fuse the connection to alternator and or battery positive cable if desired. Choose a fuse no larger than alternator's max rated output, usually 35 or 60 amps, sometimes 114-120 amps, for those circuits. A circuit breaker is possibly preferred and is more available in higher amperage ratings, resets after overload.
One type of connection terminal block has a switch to isolate entire electrical system, typically used [sometimes mandated] in racing for quick electrical disconnect. One that I prefer has a removable key/handle so that you can switch off ALL electrical, remove key/handle and nobody is going to hot wire your truck unless they're clever and well prepared. There's some really high quality stuff out there, and some straight up rip offs, too, highly overpriced!
I posted some of these links on that other thread but here's a couple of related info sites:
JEGS parts, terminal block or battery junction box, remote master disconnects: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_10409_-1_10359
Misc. parts & excellent tech info: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog.shtml
Alternator parts: http://www.alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm
Mod tricks & another way to wire the system: http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
Mopar instrument panel voltage regulator fix: http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html
Specialty part$: http://www.rallylights.com/
Relays and brightest headlights & driving lights: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
Parts, terminals, connectors, minimum order quantity required: https://www.vtewarehouse.com/
Parts & tools: http://www.trojanelectronics.com/home.htm
Misc. info, some applies: http://exp-aircraft.com/library/electric.html
The above should give you a nice winter hobby project. |
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