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SWEPTLINE CD's $20 Check or Money order to:James Megee1483 Perkins LaneEdgewater Park NJ 08010 or Paypal to: jmegee57@hotmail.comSee the CD page at http://www.olddodges.com/sweptlinecd.htm


61-71 Glove boxes, Core Support/Radiator seals, 69-71 Tool Stowage Decals, 69-71 Firewall Insluation Pads, and A100 glove boxes.Contact Gary Offill for pricing and info at gwo1988@yahoo.com
  
The '61-'71 Dodge Sweptline Truck Forum #21

The Official Forum of the DTA. Here's your place to talk about Dodge trucks made from 1961-1971. The Truck of The Week belongs to Chris. To view the DTA Photo Albums, click on the "Return to Website" link below. To view DodgeSweptline.Org, click on "DTA HOME"  Best viewed in 1024x768

      


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Subject:   Re: Re: Re: Fender lip rust-through
Name:   JimmieD
Date Posted:   Sep 22, 07 - 9:00 PM
IP Address:   66.81.196.56
Message:   I agree that the best method in many cases is to put in new metal, either with a donor fender lip added on or with the puzzle piece method. I followed your repair method with great interest and know how it's done. I met a guy at a car show abou 5 years ago with a beautiful 50's Ford panel and remarked at his flawless rear doors. He explained in detail how he had re-skinned the doors using the same method you describe. It works, no doubt about it.

Years ago when frenched lights, chopped tops and section/channeled bodies were the cool thing the method was not to attack huge areas and bend large metal panels. Instead cut & join the main pieces and then piece in little puzzle piece bits easily bent into shape, fill in the contours, grind, and lead it out.

That said I may still try this method I've described because it cuts out all the fitting, Clecos, location of a donor fender, etc. and potentially, as in maybe, leaves it at: hand-bend a piece of soft copper refrigeration tubing, weld, grind smooth, call it good. Might work.
   


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