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The '61-'71 Dodge Sweptline Truck Forum #38

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Subject:   Good 360 Info from SUPRDUD
Name:   MoparNorm
Date Posted:   Feb 12, 09 - 7:08 PM
IP Address:   71.104.149.239
Email:   Click here to Email
Message:   Years ago I built a similar engine and here are some of the troubles I had. With such a hot cam, you have special issues.

First, buy a good dial back to zero timing light. It is the only way to really see what is going on.The only other option is a regular timing light and a timing decal that goes all the way around the dampener.

If you have a stock dist. or especially a Mopar Performance dist., the advance springs and total advance may be very wrong for your cam. I ended up sending my dist. to Hughes to get a special advance curve and total advance limit built. They did it right but if I did it over I would get an MSD or similar that allows you to manually set the advance rate and total advance more easily. It would also have an option for a rev limiter.

I had bought an MP dist. kit and it was so wrong it was not even funny. It is made for a lightweight drag car. At any rpm over slow idle the mechanical advance would go much higher very quickly. It needed stiffer springs to slow the advance curve down. My cam also was to have no more than 36* total advance, including initial, mechanical and vacuum. The vacuum advance can be adjusted with an allen wrench through the hole for the vacuumed hose. Total advance is very important to help control detonation, especially in a heavy car or truck.

You can do this yourself with a spring kit and by welding and grinding on the dist. advance plate to control the distance the mechanical advance can travel. The only way to check this is by measuring the timing when the engine is revved fast enough to bring in the total mech. advance with the vacuum advance plugged. There may be some tech articles on Mopar Action's web site that cover this issue. You can use a distributor machine to spin it, but they are hard to find anywhere anymore.

Carb issues:

I had purchased an Edelbrock 750 electric choke carb. I could never get it to work right even after I had the dist. rebuilt. No matter what rods or springs I tried, the rods would go to full rich, wide open throttle position as soon as the carb was cracked past the idle position. I ended up finally calling Edelbrock to talk to a rep. He told me the manual choke and electric choke carbs have COMPLETELY DIFFERENT internal idle circuits. My cam needed the manual choke type to work. I bought an Edelbrock 800 manual choke carb and it was night and day better and worked correctly. I put the 750 electric on a mild 440 in a crewcab and it also worked great in that application.

My truck was barely drivable before the dist. was tweaked and the carb was changed.

When you do get it all dialed in, you will be happy! My 360, in a 1985 W350 crewcab 4wd auto suregrip would easily break both rear tires loose on the gravel roads at over 75 mph. Now that is scary fun! A nearly identical engine that Hughes built and dynoed made 400 hp and 440 lbs/ft.

Best of luck,
SUPRDUD



ps. Norm, you can post this on the site if you want, I am still blocked by my Norton.
Replies:    
Re: Exelent info by George(AB) · Feb 12, 09 - 10:55 PM
Re: Good 360 Info from SUPRDUD by GaryO · Feb 13, 09 - 9:10 AM
Re: Re: Good 360 Info from SUPRDUD by MoparNorm · Feb 14, 09 - 1:04 AM
Re: Re: Good 360 Info from SUPRDUD by pat · Feb 14, 09 - 5:23 AM
Re: Re: Re: Good 360 Info from SUPRDUD by GaryO · Feb 14, 09 - 5:47 AM
Re: Re: Re: Re: Good 360 Info from SUPRDUD by George(AB) · Feb 16, 09 - 4:24 PM


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